Some rods have a mix of cork and Duplon. This won’t affect the rod’s performance at all, but it will help keep the rod’s cost down though as the Duplon section is cheaper to place upon the rod butt compared to cork.
If the truth be told, abbreviated handles are nothing more than a fashionable addition to carp rods. They make the rod look nice, and they do provide grip in the right places, but that’s all really.
Thankfully we now have far more advanced screw-fit reel seats that grip the reel perfectly, no matter what type of reel we use.
Some screw-lock reel seats on cheaper rods have a visible screw design. When the reel is set upon the rod, your hand will come into contact with the screw and that can be quite uncomfortable.
On more expensive rods the screw is positioned above the reel and is hidden by a sleeve. These offer a lot more comfort as the sleeve twists over the screw to hide it, plus this design gives it additional thickness and therefore a much better feel.
Handle length and casting
Rods designed for chucking rigs a long way tend to have longer handles. Take beachcasters as an example – their handles are extremely long allowing the angler to spread the hands apart for maximum leverage and maximum punching power.
Most rods today are made from either Graphite or Fiberglass, or a Composition of these two materials.
Carbon fiber or graphite fiber
Differences between Spinning reel and Baitcasting reel
- Twists the line when "cranked on the drag".
- Can increase lure-tumble during casting.
- Are easier to set on the floor of the boat - reel sits on floor. with the rod ready to grab quickly. Bait casters ALWAYS roll over and sit upside down.
- Are easier to learn to use overall - no settings for spool spin, and lure weight.
- Works nicest with 2 to 12 lb. line
- Are easier to hold in your hand. The reel's weight is under the rod instead of on top of the rod like a baitcaster reel.
- Do not twist the line when you "crank on the drag" - line goes out linearly and returns the same way.
- Allow the lure to cast more accurately with less tumble
- Work better with heavier lines and braided lines - 10 to 20 lbs.
- Require that you adjust the reel's spool friction for the weight of each lure that you cast. Change a lure, change the friction setting on the side of the wheel.
- Require the user to have a good feel for the weight of the lure, the casting distance and the spool friction.
- Make great, trolling-only rods especially for big fish.
- Do not sit well on the floor of the boat - always ends upside down.
- Are fun to to use but baitcasters are for patient people who like to mess around a bit more. If you're on a tight time budget, spinning reels might be better.
- the waggler
- the stick float
- the pole float
Floats require a certain amount of weight to set the float on water. Various forms of split shots are used to weigh the float down. These split shots are pinched onto the fishing line and are used mainly in pole fishing because they allow you to spread the weight down the line. This lets the bait to slowly fall through the water.
How to load line onto your reel
In order to properly use the spinning reel, you must know how to spool a spinning reel. The following will guide you through the process of reloading fishing line onto your spinning reel;
- Unwind the old fishing line from the reel and dispose of it in a recycling manner covered by your local by-laws or fishing regulations. You can save your used line for proper recycling.
- Open the bail, which releases the line from the reel.
- Lay the new spool of line flat on the floor.
- Feed the free end of the new fishing line onto the spinning reel by feeding it through the eyelets on the fishing rod. Open the bale, and tie the free end of the new fishing line onto the fixed spool using a slip knot. Tighten the knot until there is about inch of line from the free end of the knot still exposed from the knot.
- Manually spool about 10 to 15 revolutions of line onto your spool, using a bit of tension.
- With the new spool of fishing line lying flat on the floor, close the bale (closing the bale can be done by simply starting to reel the handle), start reeling the new line onto the fishing reel's fixed spool by cranking the handle. Apply a little pressure on the line against the upper handle of the rod with your fingers.
- Reel the new fishing line onto the spool until the spooled line reaches the full line marked on the inside of the spinning reel's spool.
- Adding too much line only invites the fishing line to twist, knot up, or become loose and not reload onto the reel's spool properly.
- Once the spool is full, stop reeling and cut the excess line. If your reel has a line clip, slip the line into the line clip.
(click to enlarge)
Spooling new line onto a baitcasting reel requires the aid of a pencil and a friend.
- Pull old line off reel thu line guides until you have enough room on spool for new line. Always leave some line from spool through rod guides and past end of rod to tie new line to. Save the old line for proper recycling.
- Tie new line to end of old line with two clinch knots.
- Put pencil through holes in new line spool.
- Have someone hold pencil or hold it between your feet.
- Make sure line comes off new line spool in the same direction it will go on the new spool.
- Hold line tight with left hand just above reel.
- Reel line onto reel slowly, making sure it is spooled tightly.
Don't fill whole spool, you usually need only about 50 yards of line for most fishing.
Setting the drag on your reels
- Assemble your rod and attach the reel. Thread the line through all the guides from the butt to the tip top.
- Tie the line to the hook of the scale.
- Hold the rod at a 45° angle.
- Pull down on the scale. Take a reading on the scale the moment the drag begins to slip.